For those of us who have listened to Howard Garrett many reasons for not using arsenic-treated lumber we have found an article from the Associated Press that we though we should pass on. Just more proof that people brave enough to voice their concerns over environmental issues should speak louder.

Jar of Fingertips Wins Officials National Award

September 19, 2002, 10:50 am
Associated Press

BLOOMINGTON, Ind.—When it arrived in May, Monroe County officials could not have known a jar of preserved fingertips would bring them a national award.

But earlier this month, the fingertips took the "Pickled Skunk Brains" award from the North American Hazardous Materials Management Association. The award is given each year for the most unusual item handled by a hazardous-materials agency.

Monroe County received the jar of fingertips after the conclusion of a lawsuit filed by an unidentified woman who sued a lumber producer when her fingers had to be amputated after handling arsenic-treated lumber without gloves.

"I've been here eight years, and it's the most bizarre thing I've ever come across," said Scott Morgan, director of the hazardous-materials division of the county's solid waste district.

The jar was later sent to a company that specializes in hazardous biological materials in Indianapolis, where it was incinerated. Hazardous-materials agencies more commonly dispose of paint, household chemicals and used motor oil.

Things to Do in October

I know that the following article is lengthy and I want to start with it since now is one of the best times to apply:

Nematodes

I have been applying BN’s on the lawn around my home for the last eight years and have had great success in controlling insects inside and outside. Occasionally we will see some carpenter ants on the fence and a roach or tow inside the house, but those are easily controlled with some boric acid baits different baits for the different insects, but I am not going to get into baits this time since the title above says “NEMATODES”.

A lot of this article is a repeat from the October 2000 Organic Matters News Letter. During this past summer 2002 I did a lot of research about bioorganis and found some interesting things going on.

As many of you know Rohde’s Services is the parent company for Rohde’s Nursery as well as GreenSense Fertilizers. For the last eight years we have concentrated on making GreenSense soil products, but now we have started to branch out into biological controls or insects and bacteria’s that will help control diseases and other organisms.

As I interviewed owners of companies that manufactured, cultured or otherwise developed biocontrol methods I started to realize that there was so much BS going around that I had enough information to be really confused. I know some of you are saying that I lived confused so I should be happy knowing that I know that I am now confused.

To minimize my confusion I called some of the people with whom I spoke with earlier and had claims that were higher then others. For example one company claims that there BN’s (8,000,000) covered 2000 square feet, but recommended a follow up application one to two weeks after. Another company claimed that their BN’s (7,000,000) should not be applied over 1000 square feet, at this rate the BN’s would be able to control most insect populations in a short amount of time.

Anyway many of you have been wondering what the heck is a BN?

Nematodes are roundworms of the Phylum Nematoda order. Most nematodes live in the soil in very large numbers and are best known as plant parasites that live in or on plant roots, but now studies are revealing lesser-known beneficial nematodes that help in the breakdown of organic matter. These nematodes are often referred to as free-living nematodes and. can be found in moist soil around plants especially around roots of plants.

There are four main types of Nematodes depending on their food source:

Herbivores: These nematodes were the first ones studied by colleges and agricultural experts because of their destructive nature. Their needle like mouthpart is pushed into the root system of plants where they feed at the root surface. Another species of nematodes actually enter into the root where they can live and feed.

Soil-inhabiting nematodes can also be classified according to their Feeding Habits. Universities have studied nematodes by what they eat and have further classified soil dwelling nematodes into:

Bacterivores: Some nematodes feed only on bacteria and help in the decomposition of organic matter, which they take through the mouth, which is a hollow tube for ingestion of bacteria.

Fungivores: Nematodes that feed on fungi, These nematodes use a stylet to puncture fungal hyphae. These nematodes also help in breaking down organic matte.

A fungus consists of fine, thread-like filaments called hyphae (singular is hypha). The hyphae taken together constitute the mycelium of the fungus. Hyphae explore the soil for nutrients, transport them back to the plant, and help bind soil particles into aggregates.

The hyphae of AM fungi can make up to 70% of the soil's microbial biomass. Because it takes only one or a few species of fungi to form mycorrhiza with almost all of the plant community's species, the mycorrhizal mycelium forms an extensive, interconnected network in the soil.

Omnivores: As noted above some nematodes are specific eaters but there are some that are not picky eaters and will eat fungi as well as bacteria. These are omnivores.

Predators: These are the nematodes that are most talked about in the organic realm. Even though most nematodes help with the break down of organic matter the Predator nematode feed on many insects that have at least one life cycle in the soil. They feed indiscriminately on both plant parasitic and free-living nematodes. Predator nematodes are not as common as the others but can be economically introduced into most soils as biological control of soil dwelling pest insects.

These nematodes are microscopic, non-segmented worms that attack soil dwelling insects without harming plants. Beneficial Nematodes enter the bodies of their host mainly through cavities and sometimes through the body wall. You can see a good picture of this in Howard Garrett’s “Texas Bug Book” on page 98.

The nematodes reproduce leaving their offspring’s to destroy the host. When I was reading up for this article I found that the EPA considers BN’s to be so safe that they waived the application requirements.

We have had customers ask if BN’s are harmful to humans, pets and earthworms and the answer to that is: “NO!” Well unless you swallow them, so do not swallow them.

Nematodes can sense the temperature changes caused by soil living insects and move toward them. The gases emitted from these insects also attract BN”s in their direction.

Beneficial nematodes are very effective against fleas, ants, termites, roaches, flies and grubs, the most damaging or pesky critters in the residential garden.

My Application Technique: The main thing that you need to know about applying BN’s is that they want moisture. That is why I am making such a big deal now, with this article. The soil is cooler we should be getting more rain, a lot of insects are going to go into the soil now to hibernate and become easy prey.

Here in Dallas I recommend releasing BN’s at dusk. I apply nematodes with a watering can. By doing so I do not mess around with separating the vermiculite from the actual nematodes. Since you need to let the BN’s soak in water for thirty minutes, I use distilled or dechlorinated water to assure survival of the nematodes. Periodically swirl the water so that the nematodes do not settle on the bottom of the watering can.

If you want to use a pump sprayer or a hose end of sprayer pour the entire contents of the package into water and break up the carrier so that the particles are evenly separated sift out the carrier and try to distribute this matter around the soil. Then start to spread the remaining solution over the area to be treated. Again, periodically mix the solution to keep the nematodes from settling on the bottom. Because these are live creatures and will disperse in search for food I do not think that you have to cover every square foot, so do not worry about even distribution, BUT… you must keep the soil moist to keep the nematodes alive, specially during the first 2 to 3 weeks.

Horticultural Beneficial Nematodes Producers Recommended Application Methods

The solid formulation is 25 million living infective Steinernema feltiae, active units (AU), on an inert carrier. The AU are beneficial insect "eating" nematodes.

Store BENEFICIAL NEMATODES at 38°F. This is optimum storage temperature. A reliable old refrigerator works fine. BENEFICIAL NEMATODES will retain full potency for about 6 months after the packing date, at 38F in a refrigerator. Do not freeze!

Use Over 230 pests are susceptible. Based on field experiments, we recommend BENEFICIAL NEMATODES to control: artichoke moth larvae, cutworms, onion maggots, black currant borers, dogwood borers, poplar clearwing moths, black vine weevils, fire ants, pine weevils, banana moth larvae, flea beetles, raspberry crown borers, cabbage root maggots, flea larvae, sod webworms, carpenterworms, fungus gnat larvae, strawberry weevils, codling moth larvae, greater peach tree borers, tobacco budworms, corn earworms, gypsy moth larvae, white grubs, corn rootworms, iris borers, wireworms, cranefly larvae, Japanese beetle larvae, woolly aphids, cucumber beetles, mole crickets.

Use First read all directions. Identify the pest insect if possible.

BENEFICIAL NEMATODES are best applied after diluting it with moist, solid material such as soil, peat moss, or vermiculite. Premoisten about four (4) gal. of one of these solids with about 1.6 gal. Cold water. Add about 1 cup cold water to the pint container with 25 million AU. Then blend the wet BENEFICIAL NEMATODES with the Premoistened solid diluent. This blend can then be used to top dress lawns, mulch around bushes, or add around plantings or seed furrows. AU’s are not evenly distributed. Always mix the entire contents of the pint at once and remix the diluted material before application. Use within one day and keep cool and moist until application. (For fire ants mix contents with 5 gal. or more cold water in watering can.)

The AU's attack and kill pests between 50-85F. Action will be faster at warmer temperatures.

General Directions

1. Apply at dusk to prewatered areas.
2. Remix diluted BENEFICIAL NEMATODES before application to insure even coverage.
3. Apply to soil wherever the target pest insect is located.
4. Water BENEFICIAL NEMATODES into soil after application.

Instructions for use on Fungus Gnat larvae, Iris borers

1. For fungus gnats, Sciarids, in mushroom houses and for heavily infested greenhouses we recommend 38,000/sq.ft; 25 million treats 657 sq.ft. For lighter infestations in greenhouses 19,000AU per sq.ft. of pot may be adequate; 25 million AU pt. treats about 1315 sq.ft.
2. Apply to moist soil.
3. After application water plant foliage to wash off AU's on foliage.
4. BENEFICIAL NEMATODES do not kill adult gnats or pupae. First effects will be observed when a new generation of gnats would be expected to emerge, in about 10-14 days. Double the dosage for heavy infestations.

Fire ants—Mix contents with 5 gal. or more cold water in watering can with rosette removed. With constant stirring apply 1/25th of volume to each active ant mound you wish to kill.

Instructions for Black Vine Weevil, Greater peach tree borers, Dogwood borers, codling moth larvae

1. Recommended coverage is 35,000AU/sq.ft. of drip zone. 25 million AU pt. covers about 714 sq.ft.
2. Prewater areas to be treated.
3. After application as mulch, hoe in, and then wash in with extra water.
4. Calculate application rate per plant based on drip zone area. However, concentrate 75% of the application around the base of the trunk OR stem where it enters the ground. (Weevils hide here, begin egg laying here, and the trunk is the usual entry point to foliage.) Apply the remainder farther from the trunk.
5. Wash AU's down into the soil using lots of water. For best activity against adult weevils keep the drip zone moist.

Grubs are more susceptible than adults. Therefore, if you monitor leaf notching, it may be several months until the effects in treated areas are noticed.

Recommendations for use on turf: flea larvae, white grubs, tipulid larvae, scarab larvae, sod webworms, cutworms, and mole crickets.

1. Apply 19,000AU/sq.ft. of infected area. 25 million AU treats about 1315 sq. ft.
2. Prewater lawn.
3. Top dress infested areas or apply as a preventive on warm, moist areas known to be susceptible to grubs. BENEFICIAL NEMATODES work best when grubs are feeding.
4. After application water the topdressing down into the soil.

Directions for soil pests in row crops: wireworms, root maggots, etc.

1. Apply 9,000AU/linear. Ft. of row. 25 million AU treats about 2,778 linear. ft.
2. Moist soil is best
3. Add the blend (above) to seed furrow or around transplants. Cover with soil.
4. If possible water or irrigate.

Compatibility

BENEFICIAL NEMATODES are compatible with all other beneficial organisms, Bt, lacewings etc. It is also compatible with soils previously treated with botanical insecticides like pyrethrins, rotenone, nicotine sulfate, and with diatomaceous earth. It is not compatible with many organophosphates and carbamates. After applying these poisons, wait the same time as required for treated plants to become fit for human consumption before applying BENEFICIAL NEMATODES.

Safety

Beneficial nematodes are already found throughout North American and European soils, but concentrations are too low to be effective. Horticultural practices such as cultivation and soil steaming kill AU's. Therefore, soils need to be augmented with BENEFICIAL NEMATODES. BENEFICIAL NEMATODES are completely harmless to people, pets, and plants, by ingestion or injection. There is no phytotoxicity. The US Environmental Protection Agency has exempted BENEFICIAL NEMATODES from the registration required for chemicals (Federal Register vol. 47, #106, 23928). Treated plants may be eaten immediately. However, the packaged product is not intended for direct human consumption. Keep away from children.

Disposal: Rinse plastic container and dispose with sponge in trash receptacle.

Now! For Things to Do in the Yard.

If you have not yet fertilized the lawn, please remember that fall is the most important time for fertilizer application. That is one of the reasons that leaves drop, this leaf drop breaks down and feeds the soil during the winter months, allowing roots to gather needed nutrients. GreenSense All Purpose 5-2-4 Fertilizer is an excellent choice for this time of the year.

Start replenishing mulch on all beds, this mulch can be purchased or you can start accumulating leaves as they fall from trees. Try to have at least a 3-inch layer of compost, leaves, mulch, or a combination of all three to protect the soil around the plants. Do not place mulch in direct contact with the bark of the plant as this could damage the bark of that plant.

To protect the plants from the stressful changing temperatures of cold nights and warm days, apply GreenSense Kelp or Seaweed to your deciduous plants that haven’t lost their leaves yet, and your evergreens. Make sure that you treat your winter flowers and vegetables with kelp as well, so they will produce more flowers and vegetables.

Trim dead branches from deciduous trees now, while they are noticeable. Leave your heavy pruning until after a hard freeze. Do not trim trees beyond the branch collar since you will be damaging the tree itself. Paint large wounds with GreenSense Tree Goop

Garlic

When is the last time that you went into Central Market, Whole Foods or any store that displays bulk quantities of garlic? No matter what other vegetable, herb or spice is around the garlic, the powerful scent of garlic overpowers the other smells.

Do you remember the first time you kissed your date after one of you ate a meal prepared with garlic? Did you kiss with your eyes open or closed? If your eyes were open then you must remember the expression on your partners face if you were the one who ate the garlic. Or was it you who struggled to get away from the passionate, but deadly kiss?

I remember my experience, and I also remember that I never went out with her again.

Many years have passed since that kiss, and after learning more about garlic and its medicinal uses, as well as the wonderful culinary powers of these Alliums I eat Garlic on a regular basis. I might as well because my wife Sandra loves garlic, and it’s not like anyone wants to kiss me anymore anyway.

Karen is our store manager and always tells us about the medicinal powers of garlic. Karen prepares meals for her cats at home and always includes garlic in their diet as well as hers. Sandra has followed Karen’s advice and now regularly cooks with garlic and other herbs that Karen has recommended to her.

Just last week Karen made a display with several garlic bulbs. When I walked into the store after a day off, I saw five containers full of organically grown garlic.

“Could you have put them all in one container”, I asked?

“Then how would the customer know which garlic is which?”, she answered.

“You mean that there is more then one variety of garlic?”

Well, Karen being Karen told me that she just spent 10 minutes preparing information cards that were attached to the sides of the containers, indicating each variety of garlic and their differences. “READ THEM!” she suggested nicely.

I did find out that Garlic artichoke varieties has skin that is hard to remove, because of the many layers that is wrapped around and up its softneck for what seems to be its single purpose of braiding for storage in neat little kitchens featured in home decorating magazines.

Hardneck Garlic has a stiff, sometimes thick, neck because it has fewer layers making it easy to peel. This garlic has a beautiful flowering stem that curls at the ends.

The varieties of garlic that Karen has at our store:

California Early: Artichoke—Softneck. Mild flavor, stores well many people eat this raw. You have to be kidding? Raw? Tan off white color with pink blush. Braidable. Medicinal value is high. I later found out that artichoke garlic is one of the easiest to grow and have anywhere from 12 to 20 cloves. The artichoke garlic has hundreds of varieties ranging form mild taste, for the wimpish like me, to very strong Asian varieties that will permeate yor skin and soak into your clothes.

Inchelium Red: Artichoke—Softneck This variety is vigorous and large bulbed containing 12 to 20 large garlic cloves with a robust but not overpowering taste. The outer bulb wrappers are thick and protect the bulb well so it is a good storer but still peels easily. For those who want to grow their own garlic it has enough cloves that it doesn't take but a year or two to grow all you can eat. It harvests in mid-season.

Silver White: softneck. Most commonly found in supermarkets due to its long storage life. Silverskins braid well and are very hot and have only 8-12 cloves. When you see briaded garlic it is usually this variety.

Killarney Red: Rocambole-hardneck variety. Deeper more powerful bodied flavor then softnecks with a deeper full bodied flavor with thinner bulb wrappers that peel easily but has a short storage life. Killarney Red have six to eight cloves

Chesnok Red: purple stripe—hardneck. Visible purple stripes upon the white bulb gives this allium its name. This rather large garlic is great for baking holding it’s shape and retains its flavor after it is cooked. It has only six to eight cloves that are rather large. It is a pretty plant in the landscape with distinct large white flowers with curled ends.

Garlic does not have to be planted in a vegetable garden and can become a beautiful addition to any landscape. All you really need is a deep well prepared and well drained soil. Use of cotton bur compost will help in feeding the soil and raising the pH level of the soil.

Here in the Dallas area this is obviously the best time to plant Garlic and after a few weeks in warm soil they will start to root out. The cold winter temperatures will start side buds that will create cloves. Spring is the second best time.

After you have come to Rohde’s to buy your Garlic choose the largest cloves and place them root end down, but straight up just about an inch under the soil and about 5 inches apart. At the time of planting sprinkle some GreenSense Soft Rock Phosphate around each clove and for better results drench the area with GreenSense Kelp.

It is important that the soil is well drained otherwise there is a good possibility that the clove will rot. I would not recommend using any fungicides to control rotting. Break your back and improve the drainage situation even raising the bed if necessary.

The sooner the plant is established the fewer problems it will have, to help it sidedress the rows with GreenSense All Purpose Fertilizers on a regular basis and supplement this with foliar sprays as the plant emerges from the soil. Mulch the soil above the plants to help conserve moisture but more importantly to prevent weeds. Remember that if there is to much moisture the garlic will rot, so you may have to remove the mulch in some cases.

If you are in Dallas, Karen has done some of your homework by picking Garlic varieties that do well in this area. Remember that there are more then 600 varieties of Garlic so if you have time, research the varieties that do well in your area and satisfy your taste buds.

When to Harvest

After the foliage has died down lift them out of the soil and after washing the roots let them dry for a week or so. Do not dry the garlic in a sunny area.

After the bulb has dried cut off the roots and remove some of the outer layers of the garlic and braid them for storage.

Remember to store some garlic for your next planting; do not break the cloves off until ready to sow. Keep your selected “seed” bulbs in a cool area.

Before I forgetthis is also a good time for onions to go into the soil. We have red weathersfield, yellow ebenezer and white ebenezer.