Bummer
Early in the spring and even in to July we had so much rain that I bet money on a cooler then usual summer. I even went as far as to predict that we would not reach temperatures higher then 98 degrees. I was so sure of myself that I bet $100.00 in products to one of my customers. He in turn was betting a dinner for four at his restaurant. Well, I lost and I am bummed out about it.
Not So Bummer
For those of you who are very observant you will notice a new icon on the upper right corner of the newsletter and the opening page to Beorganic.com there is a new icon that says “SPECIALS”. From now on, get into the habit of clicking on that button to be find of weekly, or monthly specials. These specials will be timely offerings for products, plants or garden art and giftware. Before each trip to Rohde’s, log on for savings. You must bring a print out of these specials to get these prices. Only the products offered on the site during that period will be discounted. Bummer! You cannot bring in earlier offers that have expired even by one day.
Things to Do in August
Before doing any work in the garden or around the exterior of the house keep yourself cool. Not only does that mean drink a lot of water, wear cool loose fitting clothes, preferably not dark colors, try not to work for long periods of times before resting in a nice cool area of the lawn or turning on the hose to cool your head and body off.
I have been told that the quickest way to cool your body off is by locating areas in the body were the blood flows near the surface, that would be the neck, the armpits and the groin area.
If you can only figure out a way to keep these areas cool you would have it made.
There is a way.
What do you do with all those ties in the closet that may have been stained with spaghetti sauce or other food items? How about those outdated ties that are about 6 inches wide, will they sit in the closet forever?
In the past I have talked about GreenSense Solid Water as a product that could be used in the lawn, garden and in potted plants as a way to cut back on your watering. Solid Water, aka polymers, works by absorbing water and holding it for long periods of time. It works well even if that water is very cold and placed inside an old tie wrapped around your neck or tied loosely under your arm.
The reason to use old ties is because they are already sewn into a tube shape. Place the tie around your neck and mark the spots were it fits comfortably around the sides and back of your neck. About 12 to 15 inches long. Sew one of those ends and pour a teaspoon of Solid Water into the tie from the open end and then sew it shut. If you are like me, and do not know how to sew, just tie off the ends.
Caution: I put 3 teaspoons of Solid Water in the tie on my first try and soaked it in water before putting it in the refrigerator. The tie broke at the seems and before I noticed what had happened I had little pieces of polymer that were clear in color and jell-o like al over the refrigerator shelves and on the kitchen floors. On my second try I used two teaspoons and it was so stiff that it was heavy and uncomfortable and would not wrap comfortably around my neck. The third time worked well, with one teaspoon. Try it and see how cool you can be.
Place in the refrigerator for a few hours and wear your tie for outdoor activities.
The Lawn
Water: I water my lawn once a week and spot treat my perennials and shrubs as needed. I know that when I water my lawn, my sprinkler system puts out one inch of water if I set my system to go on three times for 8 minutes on each cycle. This also keeps me from wasting water through run off. Soils in out Dallas area need one inch or more of watering once a week.
You cannot go from watering a lawn three times a week to once a week in this heat, but you can start weaning the lawn off of frequent watering by testing the soils moisture between watering. Walking over the lawn easily checks moisture levels in grass. See if the blades spring back to an upright position, if not, water.
Brown Patch: keep treating for brown patch. Even if you think that you have eliminated the problem keep applying Corn Meal at a rate of 10 to 20 lbs per thousand square feet. Discontinue using synthetic fertilizers that contain high nitrogen, since this encourages the fungal disease
Check for low spots or areas that may hold water and correct this problem this will help minimize the areas in your lawn that may be prone to the disease.
Now that it is hot, you should be mowing at the highest level on your lawn mower. Leave the grass clippings on the ground so that they can break down and be used as a fertilizer.
Aerate the lawn now. The plugs taken out of the soil will leave little cups that can be used to collect water permitting easier percolation and therefore less amount of water will be needed.
Chinch Bugs: Most homeowners will first notice dead patches of grass along a driveway, curb, sidewalk or foundation of the home, due to the heat emitted from such objects.
The chinch bugs insert their slender beak into the grass and suck the plant juices. As the chinch bug sucks the plant juices, it releases a toxin that causes yellowish to brownish patches in turf. Typical injury appears as spreading patches of brown, dead grass.
Inspecting for Chinch Bugs: You can identify infestations by using a large coffee can or gallon can with both ends removed. Press one end of the can about two or three inches into the soil, fill with soapy water, and watch for about five minutes. If chinch bugs are present, they will float to the surface. It is very important to check areas where the yellowish spots and the green grass meet in several different locations.
Thatch: removal is important for eliminating conditions favorable for chinch bug survival.
Most organic lawns that have plenty of microbial activity do not have a heavy thatch problem.
We have noticed that GreenSense Lawn & Garden Microbial Treatment helps reduce thatch. With proper watering practices you can promote beneficial fungi that attack chinch bugs. Low nitrogen fertilization slows chinch bug reproduction although the lawns regularly attacked by these insects (St. Augustine) are heavy feeders and prefer more fertilizer than other turf grasses. This is one of the reasons why chemical advocates do not recommend fertilizing at this time.
Control for Chinch Bugs: If you do find that your lawn has chinch bugs use D.E. at a rate of one lb. per 500 sq/ft. Treat infested areas and then treat the edges of these areas as a control for escaping insects. Do not treat the entire lawn.
Crape Myrtles
Powdery Mildew did not seem to be as big of a problem this year as last until mid July. Now powdery mildew seems to be on every Crape Myrtle. Powdery mildew can be treated with a combination of Potassium Bicarbonates and Ultra Fine Paraffinic Oil at a rate of 2 ounces each per gallon of water. Apply as needed
Baking Soda: Many gardeners have baking soda in their kitchens and can also use it as a control for mildew and other fungi. Long term build up of sodium is the reason why I do not use it.
Most fungal problems can be treated with either or by mixing two tablespoons (Potassium Bicarbonate) to a gallon of water. For best results add two ounces of Foliar Juice to the mixture and lightly mist the foliage of diseased plants. For grass apply the same mixture over 400 sq/ft.
For more information on baking soda click here.
The Landscape
Water: Earlier I said that I water my lawn once a week. That does not mean that I will not go out and spot treat my perennials and shrubs as needed. On July 20th , I put out 15 yards of St. Augustine. If I were lazy I would have to turn on two separate stations to fully cover the installed grass. I would have at one time or another water coming out of 13 different heads, BUT, only 4 heads would actually be watering the new sod. I do water the new sod as soon as I wake up, when I get back home and right before I go to bed.
Do not forget to water the foundation. Houses with large trees planted near the foundation need more watering to prevent the trees from sucking up the moisture from under the foundation. It is said that a Silver Leaf Maple can uptake 30,000 gallons of water in one day. Imagine what could happen to your foundation if there is no moisture there. If you are one of those who feel like you should have hanging baskets a hanging, then water daily Solid Water from GreenSense in the baskets and potted plants. Check to be sure that they do need water and then water thoroughly.
I would add Foliar Juice or Kelp each time. Add some Apple Cider Vinegar to help prevent any fungi.
Mulch: Help conserve moisture and keep the soil temperature down by using a three-inch layer of heavy shredded mulch, like Hardwood, Cedar or Cypress bark. Do not use pine bark mulch. That stuff is cheap, but when we start getting rain again it will float away. Shredded mulch will interlock so that heavy winds or rains will not wash them away. I use Pine Straw at my house. I like the long needles and the fact that as they break down they help acidify the soil.
Weeding: If you have used mulch you should have fewer weeds, but you will notice that where the mulch has broken down and the sunlight can reach the soil weeds may have started to germinate or even take over. Do not wait to pull them or spray them, do it now! If spraying is easier use 20 percent vinegar to carefully spray the foliage of the weed, not the surrounding plants. On a hot day you can see the weeds die within minutes. Victory, hurrah!
Re-mulch the beds so that weeds will not germinate and if they do pop up it will be easier to pull the root system from the loose mulch then from the heavy clay.
The Vegetable Garden
Now is a good time to start your fall garden and many nurseries now have transplants in stock.
If birds got more of your tomatoes then you did, try growing some yellow varieties. Birds won't know when they're ripe and won't eat as many.
Carrots, beets, lettuce, spinach, radishes, and over-wintering cauliflower are the most popular vegetables to grow in the winter garden.
Perennials
These plants can be started from seed sown directly into the garden this month or next. The spring flowering perennials can be divided and transplanted this month or next. Be sure to do it during the coolest part of the day and water-in the plants thoroughly after transplanting.
Take a few minutes to pick spent and dead flowers on annuals and perennials, this will make a big difference in the health of the plant. As soon as most plant goes to seed, it will quit producing more flowers. Remove the spent flowers and the plants will flower longer. The garden also looks better without the unsightly spent blooms.
Planting: In late August plant fall chrysanthemums, petunias and dianthus. They will begin to bloom in late September. When selecting plants for your garden, look for a lot of healthy buds. Make sure that they are still tight and not about to open yet. Apply Kelp at time of planting and once a week thereafter.
Preventive Measures: Take time to examine the garden on a weekly basis to see if any bugs are ruining flowers or shrubs. Don't call your local nursery for help over the phone, bring in samples so that they can see what is causing the problem and recommend the appropriate steps correct the problem.
Grasshoppers
One of the major pest problems at this time will be grasshoppers.
During June we were offering a product called Kaolin to be used as a grasshopper deterrent.
We were not really giving any information out with this product because very little was known about application rates and methods of application. We gave out more then 300 samples and have heard from about 75 people.
To the best of my interpretation skills form the emails and phone calls that I received the best way to apply Kaolin and have some success with its repelling qualities:
Find an all-purpose sprayer that is clean and capable of applying great volumes of water-logged material. An old Miracle-Gro Sprayer seemed to be the most favored applicator.
Other hose end sprayers and pump sprayers seemed to work, but were slower and required more applications.
Almost everyone seemed to agree that they needed some type of agitator inside the bottle to keep the Kaolin from settling. Many people wrote saying that a simple rock or some marbles worked well. They would shake to bottles regularly as they spraye the product.
Using no less then a half-pound of Kaolin per gallon of water start to apply at the top of the plant leaving a thick milky residual on the leaves and stems of the plants that you are trying to protect..
After the Kaolin has dried inspect the plants for grasshopper activity, and yes everyone said that they still had grasshoppers. Reapply a second application if necessary. Do not spray so much that you wash off the first coat.
If necessary some people have applied a third coating of Kaolin.
Persistence pays off for they who are willing to go a little further. About 20 people said that they sprayed only one. Three of these people had good results. Twenty or so people said that two applications were necessary and another 20 people said that after the third application they saw very few grasshoppers were still on the plant. Many customers said that it did not work and would not try it again. Who said if it at first you don’t succeed try and try again. Obviously not the last group of people.
Because the grasshopper no longer wants to eat the plants that have been coated with Kaolin, this would be a good time to apply.
One of Howard Garrett's Ground Crew members wrote the following instructions: Just spraying a clay mixture in water did not look good the clay puddled on the leaves. I added liquid dish washing soap and it worked good in covering the leaves and tomatoes. I also sprayed some johnson grass next to the tomatoes. The tomatoes look good and are still producing and the johnson grass that was sprayed is in good shape. Johnson grass about 10 feet away has been stripped and the hoppers has attacked okra that was not sprayed stripping most of the leaves. I feel that the Kaolin works and will spray eariler next year and spray everything. Mix:
2 gallons water
1 qt Kaolin clay
1 tablespoon liquid dish washing soap
It goes into solution very well and covers good.
Nolo Bait Grasshopper Control
Nolo Bait is grasshopper suppression bait made from flaky wheat bran, which is sprayed with a suspension of distilled water, a sticking agent (Methylcellulose), and Nosema Locustae spores. It is non-toxic to humans, livestock, wild animals, birds, fish, or life forms other than grasshoppers and species of insects closely related to grasshoppers. It is very important to understand that Nolo Bait or "Nosema Locustae " does not work rapidly. It is a subtle disease that is naturally occurring and takes time to develop to levels that can be readily identified. By putting out the bait at the minimum label rate of 1 lb. per acre equivalent, you are performing what is called an "inoculative" release. This will begin the disease process in the population present at that time; however, depending on the grasshopper population densities and varying age groups at the time, the level of inoculation will vary.
For instance, if you have more than 8 grasshoppers per sq. yard and put out one pound to the acre one time, you will probably have serious competition for each flake of bran out there. Quite possibly there will be a large percentage of grasshoppers that don't even get one flake to themselves. In that case, there will be many that will not become infected, at least until they begin consuming those around them that have become sick enough to become attractive as a food source to the healthy grasshoppers, thereby spreading the disease. Because grasshoppers are extremely migratory and can move over great distances, it is optimal to inoculate your area frequently throughout the season. This will help to spread the infection further and aid in long-term control. Nosema may not work as quickly as chemical pesticides, but used correctly, it will have a noticeable impact on populations in the long term.
The more area treated on a consistent basis, the more long term control you can expect to take place. Optimally, spreading bait frequently throughout the season will be more advantageous than just once at the label minimum application rate.
Healthy grasshoppers will feed on infected grasshoppers from the abdomen up to the thorax (mid section), which is just behind the front legs. They don't usually eat the head or the hard "plate-like" shield behind the head, which covers the thorax. Holding live grasshoppers just behind the head along the hard plate can do visual examination of a grasshopper for evidence of infection. Turn the grasshopper over and look at the underside of the abdomen. On each side of the abdomen there are two depressions, which run the length of the abdomen beside the segments in the sides. In many species of healthy grasshoppers, the depressions will be a darker color than the rest of the abdomen, or even look like lines running the length of the abdomen. When a grasshopper becomes infected with nosema, often these lines will disappear and the entire abdomen will become a "creamy" whitish or grayish color. This can be an indicator that spore reproduction is heavy. Often, in a heavily infected individual, the eyes will also lose their dark color and become whitish or hazy looking. If the head turns white it is amazing if the grasshopper is still alive.
Broad-spectrum
Broad-spectrum or blanket spraying is probably one of the least favorite terms for an organic gardener. When I was talking about chinch bugs and grasshoppers I mentioned treating specific areas or using specific control products. Do not use an insecticide that will kill all insects around, or treat more of an area then you really have to. When you spray a plant with a broad-spectrum insecticide chemical or organic you kill all bugs pest and predators. If predators and pest are balanced before you spray then the pest that survives will spring back faster because their food source was not harmed and most of their enemies were killed off. The predators that survived will not have enough food to survive because their food source, the pest, was also killed. Therefore their population will not be adequate to maintain a balanced relationship. The pest will increase its numbers quickly and cause more damage than before the pesticide was applied.
Bad Soil Is No Problem in a Natural Garden
Don Trotter
Hello fellow Earthlings, and welcome to the garden where poor soils are only a memory. This time we will be discussing the best way to grow a great garden. Grow a great soil first! We will look at some of the problems associated with soils at new home sites. So let's take a look at that dirt.
Soil is the crucible of all life in your garden. It should be treated with at least the same amount care that we give to the plants that grow in the garden. It is the soil that makes a garden or breaks it. This is true of any size garden or of a potted plant collection. Unless you are gardening hydroponically, you are subject to soil quality to determine garden quality. The soil is something that we seem to forget about in these days of instant fertilizers that melt in water and work before you finish paying for them. Soil conditions are actually worsened by these instant plant foods in many ways. The beneficial microorganisms that break down organic matter and crowd out disease, earthworms, and essential mineral availability are actually antagonized or reduced by using these materials.
These products may seem inexpensive at the garden center and their advertising is very persuasive. But these materials have to be reapplied often and plants react to them like you would react to a triple espresso with double sugar. It gives them a good buzz, they grow real fast, and then they hit a wall. This instant gratification comes at a price. The plants that you feed with these wonder products are more susceptible to insect pests, stress, and damage from disease. The moral of this story is that chemicals will initiate the use of more chemicals. It is a kind of not-so-merry-go-round of toxic substances. Now back to talkin' dirt.
New homeowners are often subjected to soil conditions that are less than ideal due to the fact that the soils are mechanically compacted and haven't seen the light of day since dinosaurs walked the earth. When housing tracts are developed, soil quality for plant growth is always sacrificed for stability. This is done for very good reasons, like making sure that your new house doesn't slide into the neighbor's pool. But once the house is bought and you are ready to install your new yard there are some serious challenges ahead. New gardens are subject to a number of "expert opinions".
The most logical place to start is the soil. In a well conditioned soil you can plant smaller plants that will grow at an even pace that will pass up those gardens where lots of money was spent on plants and the soil was minimally improved in short order with fewer diseases and reduced stress.
Digging out large quantities of native soil in favor of one or two feet of topsoil is also not the answer. Making a bathtub out of permeable soils over a compacted soil can cause more damage than it is worth, and this type of technique will be expensive. The "expert" advice that I suggest to those of you preparing new gardens is lots of fully composted organic matter incorporated into the top six to eight inches of soil along with a natural nitrogen source and minerals. This should be followed with a three to four inch layer of organic mulch. This mulch layer should be maintained as it decomposes.
By using this easy practice you will soon find that your soil drains better, holds moisture better, and you have fewer problems associated with runoff. This method of continuous soil improvement will prove out to be the most effective and economically sound way to feed your soil so your soil can feed your plants. Your soil will literally come to life before your eyes. Earthworms and billions of beneficial microbes will begin to work non-stop to speed up this process as long as chemical fertilizers and pesticides are avoided. You will find that your plants have fewer problems associated with mineral and nutrient deficiencies and that you use less water to adequately irrigate the garden. In time, the economic gain will show in reduced water bills and fewer cash expenditures on pest and disease control.
Compost and mulch are very easy to find at municipal waste facilities, dairy farms, or your favorite garden center. Mineral soil conditioners are always available at most nurseries and garden centers and natural sources of nitrogen and other essential nutrients are also available at most garden centers and home centers. For a detailed description of how to treat your new garden soil email or fax me your soil conditions, soil color and a brief description of your general location and I will be happy to provide you with some suggestions and places where reliable materials may be obtained for the lowest cost I have encountered.
Next time we will be discussing problem soils that can't seem to grow those gardenias or anything for that matter. See you in the garden!
Got Questions? Email the Doc at Curly@mill.net Don Trotter's natural gardening columns are printed nationally in environmentally sensitive publications. Check out Don's books Natural Gardening A-Z and The Complete Natural Gardener for lots of other helpful tips to tend your garden without chemicals. Both are available at all bookstores and on line booksellers from Hay House Publishing.
Trumpet Vine
by Nancy Fletcher
Many a year went by before considering planting Trumpet Vine. Although this is a bright productive vine and is always a lovely site sometimes it can really be a nuisance. This perennial will grow on walls or trellis up to thirty-nine feet with a heavy woody tree like stems. Sometimes, one could believe it was the vine in Jack and the Beanstalk since the flowers produce seed pods ten to fifteen centimeters or four to six inches long. The flowers are a bright orange to red color and they are seven to ten centimeters, or two to four inches long.
The plant is native to America and grows from New Jersey to Pennsylvania, Florida and on, to Texas. It prefers moist well-drained soil. However, it will grow in the poorest of soil. It can withstand drought and if it has a heavy trellis it will withstand wind as well.
A trumpet vine is no longer recommended as a landscape plant because it is so aggressive. It has aerial roots which will cling like super glue. These roots can cause damage to brick mortar and to the roof of a house. These recommendations could be set aside in a new housing district where there are no shade trees. This plant grows rapidly and with a tall trellis it will give shade quickly. One must just consider the thought of having to get rid of it which is sometimes difficult.
Hummingbirds as well as ants love the trumpet shaped blossoms. Butterflies also are attracted to the plant.
For years we tried every plant on this one particular area of the hillside. Nothing would grow well there. Since the drive is close to this strip, water running off the hill gives no place for anything to thrive. We finally made the decision to try this trumpet vine. As you can see from the picture, it certainly is happy here. Probably, we will plant them along this fence. Eventually, the vine will fill in the fence line anyway. The drive to the side of the vine will keep it contained. Across the fence the neighbor also has his drive there.