Our website is going on its fourth year!

Even though our website does not generate a lot of sales, we have noticed that we get more and more visits everyday. The newsletter remains the most frequented area on the website.

Every month, I try to come up with new material for the newsletter. I don’t know how, but ideas just keep popping up and I manage to get all the newsletters out on time.

One of these days I am going to run out of things to write about, but thanks to Don Trotter, I now have several articles to use on our site. Even though he is from California, I am pleased to see the similarities in the products that he uses and recommends. Although the products he recommends are not available everywhere in the US, similar products can be found with little effort. I have one favor to ask, please. If you have been reading Don Trotter’s articles, show him your support. Send the Doc an email. Read Don's books, Natural Gardening A-Z, The Complete Natural Gardener, and Rose Gardening A-Z, for lots more common sense tips on tending your garden spaces. His books are available at all bookstores and on-line booksellers from Hay House Publishing.

Many of our customers who have been using organic products for some time said that they did not have any problems with their annuals, perennials or their lawns. “Please, send testimonials,” I asked, “I would sure like to put them in my newsletter.” Well, do you remember reading any of these testimonials? No! That’s because no one sent them. Customers find it easier to tell me their success stories than to send them to me.

There is one story that I must tell you about. It is about a little old man that came in to our store almost weekly for about three months. He would only buy lava sand. Week after week he would load up his car with six or seven bags of lava sand. Well, after a while he quit coming in. As a matter of fact, I have not seen him in over two months. Sometime in late September, a younger man, someone that I have never seen before, came in and said that he wanted to buy some lava sand for his lawn. The younger man noticed that his neighbor, the older man, had put down bags and bags of lava sand. He was surprised to see that the older man rarely watered his lawn and that it was the greenest lawn on the block. He started to laugh as he told me that whenever he walks on his neighbor’s lawn, it crunches, but it sure was pretty. Since then we have had five neighbors of the older man come to buy lava sand for their lawns.

The year 2000 did not give us any computer glitches, but the drought was worse to most nurseries than any computer problem could have been.

As a retail nursery this year was very difficult. We started out with a bang and in the first seven months we were just shy of last year’s total gross sales. We had lots of rain and customers were coming over in record numbers. Not only were they buying organic products but also lots and lots of native plants and perennials. We thought that we were on track to almost double last year’s sales. We were able to pay off our mortgage, thank you all very much! And then, Wham! Once again a ferocious drought hit us. The summer was so hot and dry that we had very few sales and then in October and November we got hit with record rainfalls, every weekend.

This year turned out to be financially devastating for at least four nurseries that I know of. Three of these nurseries called me up and asked me if I would be interested in buying them out.

All three times I had to fight back my laughter as I tried to explain to them that I also had a bad year.

Things are getting better now that customers are coming in to buy Christmas gifts and flowers for their yards.

This year I am not taking my family any where for the New Year. Assisi, my 15-year-old daughter is happy since she will finally be able to bring in the New Year with her good friends. This will be the first year since she was five that she has not been somewhere different.

I wish you all Happy Holidays and hope that your year 2000 was prosperous.

Things to Do in December

I know that it is the time of the year when we start to think about other things than working on that yard.

With family and friends coming over to help us celebrate this joyful time of the year, there are still some things that we must do.

Bulbs: Unlike last year we now have wet soils to worry about. If the ground is too wet, there is a chance that bulbs may rot, if you need to plant your bulbs now, then make sure that the soil they are to be planted in gets good drainage. There is no final plant-by date in which the bulbs have to be planted. Wait until January if you must. Do not hurry up to watch a plant die. Do not rush into things, let the ground dry out before planting.

Keep your tulips in the fridge at about 40 degrees. If they stay in longer than 30 days that is okay, you really do not want them to stay in for less than that. There still is time to plant bulbs of tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocus and the other spring flowering bulbs. Prepare the soil by mixing the correct amount of rock phosphate and compost with your existing soil. Plant the bulbs approximately three times deeper than the greatest diameter of the bulb. For example, a crocus bulb with an average one-inch diameter should be planted three inches deep.

If you want to have some real pretty table decorations for your place setting, now, like before the 5^th of December, is the time to set out paper whites for your floral decorations.

Planting Trees and Shrubs: Why anybody would wait until spring to plant trees and shrubs is beyond me. Now is the time to ask Santa Clause for trees for Christmas. Tell him that you were miserably uncomfortable last summer; that the sun coming in through this window or that French door just made the room way too hot for comfort.

You are on a roll now.

Tell that jolly fat man that you do not want one tree you want two or three.

While you are at it tell him that you do not want any old tree that may be short lived, tell him you want long lived native trees that your great grandchildren will see and say, “My grandmamma made her old man plant that trees 80 years ago. Isn’t it beautiful!”

You go girl!

Tell him you do not want a Bradford Pear or a Fruitless Mulberry. Tell him you want a tree from:

ROHDE’S!

Yes, Virginia, this is a perfect time to plant a tree or shrub.

After October most plants will be able to grow great root systems that will help them make it through another drought.

At time of planting use Mycor to help increase the survival rate of any tree that you plant. The Mycorrhiza fungi forms a symbiotic relationship on the plant’s root system which is extremely beneficial.

If you are going to move a plant from one spot to another be sure that the desired area is ready to receive the transplant. If planting into a bed prepare the soil before hand mixing compost and other organic matter to the soil. Be sure to set the plant at the same level as it was previously growing. If possible, replant the tree or shrub in the same direction that it was before being transplanted. Place a ribbon on the north side before moving the plant and make sure that the ribbon is on the north side after relocation.

I hate to bring this up, but remember, the sun rises from the east and sets in the west.

Proper Tree Planting Techniques by Howard Garret

Weeds: Last year on December 1^st, a commercial property asked us to control weeds without using chemicals. On December 2^nd, I sent a crew out with perennial rye grass. On December 20^th, the rye grass was ready to be cut for the first time. Now, it is true that the rye grass was mostly a disguise to blend in with the weeds and hide them. But, in June when the rye grass died back there were fewer visible tuffs of Dallis grass and Crab grass. We started a heavy fertilizing program where we actually recommended monthly applications of nutrients, minerals and microbes. We also instructed them to not water frequently and to have their staff mow more often and to use a grass catcher. This fall, when the guys went back to re-sow rye grass, I went with them and was pleased to see that they had fewer winter weeds.

Take time to pull or cultivate weeds that are growing in all parts of the garden before they flower and go to seed again this winter. Otherwise, you will be fighting those weed seeds for many years to come.

Lawn Fertilizing: As mentioned above natural fertilizers can be and should be used in December and any other month that you wish. Because root growth is so vigorous during the colder months fertilizing with all natural products will be rapidly found and taken up by the plant.

Fungi Control: In November one of the most frequent calls we received from our customers was about yellow patches growing in their lawns. With record rainfall and warm temperatures, November was a great month for fungi to develop. Start treating with Potassium Bicarbonate or corn meal now.

Because brown patch will continue to grow in the winter, do not wait for the spring to start using fungal control methods.

My choice is Potassium Bicarbonate and goes out at a rate of 2 tablespoons per gallon of water over 400 square feet.

Howard Garrett recommends corn meal. Corn meal should be evenly spread over and beyond the infected area at a rate of 10 pounds per thousand square feet.

Green Sense Microboost is a granulated product that contains corn meal, molasses and wheat bran. Customers report that with the use of this product they noticed a decrease in the brown patch, more worms and greener and healthier plants. Apply at a rate of 20 pounds per thousand square feet.

Pruning: For the last few years I have said that I like waiting until a freeze before pruning trees, particularly Live Oaks and Red Oaks. If you have been waiting, now is the time to get that done.

Try to remove as much as possible with as few cuts as you can. By this I mean that if you are going to prune one branch to remove excess weight, step back and see where you can make one cut and remove several branches at once.

Go ahead and prune fruit trees, but hold off on pruning shrubs and roses.

It is a misconception to think that Crape Myrtles have to be pruned each year. The only pruning that I like to do on Crape Myrtles are the branches that can cause injury or structural damage to buildings or passing vehicles.

Watering: It is especially important to check the plants under tall evergreens and under the eaves of the house to see that they have sufficient moisture. In many cases the plants in these locations are just about bone dry, and the lack of moisture and cold winter weather can be fatal to many of these plants. The plants in most other parts of the garden have now received enough moisture from fall rains to survive quite well, so every effort should be made to conserve water.

Last year we aerated several lawns where the customer was spending hundreds of dollars trying to keep their grass alive. We applied a polymer called:

Green Sense Solid Water: This new product acts like a microscopic sponge, it absorbs water, minerals, enzymes, and fertilizers; in short, everything a young plant needs to grow into maturity. The Solid Water is safe, nontoxic and environmentally friendly.

With some variation depending on soil composition, weather conditions and specific applications, this product will last up to ten years. It will enhance the soil conditions. It absorbs and holds water in reserve until needed by plants, trees and lawns. It will not compete with plants for water.

Instructions for Use

New lawns and gardens: Apply one pound per thousand square foot of area (20 feet by 50 feet). Spread evenly with a spreader or by hand so that a light blanket of The Solid Water covers the area. Cultivate the product to a six inch depth of the lawn or garden.

New Lawns: apply new sod, fertilizer and water.

Existing Lawns: Aerate and use applicator to evenly distribute product over the area. One pound mixed with 50 pounds of Humate applied over 4000 square feet.

New Gardens: mix with topsoil, compost and water.

Existing Gardens and Flower Beds: Spread The Solid Water over area, cultivate with a spade to a depth of six inches.

Potted Plants: For best results it is recommended to pre-mix The Solid Water into the soil media. Follow the recommended amounts in the chart below. It is not necessary to water the polymer before mixing, but keep in mind it may expand 500% its weight as it hydrates. Leave approximately one inch in the pot for expansion. Pot plant in the appropriate container using the soil mixed with The Solid Water. Water thoroughly the first time.

Previously Potted Plants: Make holes in the soil according to the chart below to a depth approximately 2/3 of the depth of the pot. Avoid damaging the root center. Pour equal amounts of granules into each hole using the appropriate amount as specified below. Cover the holes with soil and water thoroughly. Depending on environment water usage may be reduced by up to 70%.

Winter Plant Protection: Should the weather turn really cold all of a sudden like it has in the past, it would be a good idea to provide some special protection to tender or early flowering plants, like camellias, and annual color. One of the best ways to provide this protection is to simply cover the plants with some type of cloth material. First place three or four stakes around the plant then drape the burlap, old blanket or other cloth type material over the stakes so it does not come into direct contact with the leaves of the plant. This covering is only left in place during the cold spell. As soon as the weather moderates, remove the covering completely.

Composting: Fallen leaves and unused plant parts should be added to the compost pile to help make compost for use in next year’s garden. Keep compost piles from becoming water logged by covering with plastic tarps. Turn the pile before covering.

Dormant Spraying: November, December, January and early February are the months to apply dormant spray to help control over-wintering insects and diseases on deciduous trees and shrubs. Liquid lime-sulfur and oil spray combinations are usually used for this seasonal spraying. Specialists usually recommend that dormant sprays be applied three times during the winter, with the first application being made in November, the second in December and the third in late January or early February, about the time the new growth buds begin to break-open. There is no need to spray any of these types of plants if there has been no insect or disease problems this past season. Protect peach trees from peach leaf curl. Dormant sulfur or copper fungicides are ideal with the first application made at the end of December. If the weather is cold, the second and third applications can be timed at 4-week intervals. If the weather is warm, 3-week intervals between applications will be more effective.

Fall Care for Your Fruit Trees Makes a Big Difference

Don Trotter

Hello fellow Earthlings and welcome to the orchard. In this discussion we will be looking at many of the ways that we can care for our deciduous fruit trees to ensure a bountiful harvest of sweet and nutritious food from our trees.

Deciduous fruit trees have a distinct dormant period that is usually brought about by the onset of cooler weather. The most significant evidence of this dormant period is the loss of all the leaves on the tree. Aside from the most obvious signs of dormancy a few other things should be known about this time in the life of your fruit trees. During the dormant period your trees stop or drastically slow down the movement of sap. This is one of the reasons that the cool season is the best time to prune. Since sap has slowed many of the insect pests and disease organisms that are known to target particular types of fruit trees also go into a non-mobile or dormant state. This is known as overwintering. This is one of the best times of year to apply control measures to these pest organisms.

During the dormant period, your fruit trees have no foliage for insect pests to hide in. If the insect pests choose to stay on your tree during the winter dormant period they are exposed and much more vulnerable to your control efforts. Many disease organisms are also just as exposed and are much easier to control as well. The method used by most gardeners to control these bad guys is dormant spraying. One really great thing about dormant sprays is that many of the most effective materials you can apply are of natural origin. Natural dormant spray materials are commonly sold at most garden centers and nurseries. Some of the most popular materials for use as dormant sprays are Lime (Calcium carbonate) and Sulfur combinations, Copper and Sulfur materials (Copper sulfate), and a myriad of Potassium salt-based soap sprays. I am also a rather big believer in the use of paraffin oils instead of the more common petroleum based dormant oils.

Dormant spraying of your fruit trees is probably as important to the overall well-being and productivity as proper pruning and feeding. Timing is easy; just wait until the tree goes dormant. I like to apply two applications of different dormant sprays before pruning, one after pruning and then dormant oil to seal in and suffocate the bad guys as well as seal out other unwanted visitors. My favorite spray program includes a couple of applications of a homemade spray, an application of Copper sulfate after pruning, and then I apply dormant oil. I like Lime/Sulfur sprays but do not apply them to apricot trees. My recipe for a homemade dormant spray is as follows:

For one gallon of water,
5 Tablespoons of Hydrogen peroxide
2 Tablespoons of Baking Soda
2 Tablespoons of a Castile soap

After mixing this material into my sprayer I find that if I shake this mixture vigorously it seems to blend up very well. I often agitate this material during application as well to ensure continued mixing. The reason I use Castile soaps is that they are of natural origin (most begin with olive oil) and they are rich in potassium salts that are known to eat through the protective waxy coating (cuticle) on insects. This exposes pests to the elements and often causes them to lose body fluids, thus eliminating them. The hydrogen peroxide and the baking soda are very effective at removing active disease organisms and sterilizing fungal spores.

The use of copper immediately after pruning allows me some piece of mind in knowing that no open wounds on the tree are exposed to disease and the final spray of dormant oil protects the tree from marauders looking for a home.

Protecting your trees during the dormant period really helps to ensure that you have less pest and disease issues during the growing season. By taking these easy steps toward prevention you will spend a lot less time reacting to diseases, fungi, and nasty little buggers. This proactive approach to fruit tree care will give you more time during the warm season to sit in the shade and relax with the comfort of knowing you did it naturally. Next time we'll be discussing the soil your fruit trees are growing in and how to improve it for healthier and more vigorous growth. See you in the Garden!

Got Questions? Email the Doc. Don Trotter's natural gardening columns appear nationally in environmentally sensitive publications. Check out Don's books for lots of helpful gardening tips— Natural Gardening A-Z, The Complete Natural Gardener, and soon to be released Rose Gardening A-Z, all from Hay House Publishing and available at all bookstores and on-line booksellers.

What’s in a Name?

Before I start this article, I must tell you that the names have been changed a little bit to protect the innocent. Me!

I was driving down the road one cold and rainy day in November, when a little blue truck passed me up. Now that was unusual, someone actually passing me up. Well, what really caught my attention was that on the side of the truck there were some really cute decals of ladybugs. And in between the ladybugs was a sign that advertised:

“Lady Beetle Exterminating”

No way, I thought. Why would anyone want to exterminate lady beetles? How dumb can some people be? Well, at the next stop light I got out of my car and asked the person who was driving the truck why they would want to exterminate ladybugs?

“We do not want to exterminate ladybugs,” she said. “That is the name of our company.”

“Well, that is a stupid name for a company. It seems to me that you imply that ladybugs are bad and should be killed,” I said.

The girl driving the truck said that she had several calls in the last few days about ladybugs invading homes. And those should be killed!

“What?” I asked with curiosity. As I started to ask her another question the light changed and she drove away quickly. She stuck her head out the window and screamed “TREE HUGGER!”

Was I supposed to feel angry? Why use a name that would imply that lady beetles should be exterminated? Well, the truth is that I was angry! How could someone think that the name, “Lady Beetle Exterminating,” would be cute or even clever?

I decided to look up the phone number of this company. I was really curious and I wanted to talk to the owner. I did a search on the Internet: Bug Blasters, Exterminator Corporation, Master Exterminator, Pestavoid Termite Control, Ponderosa Pest Control*, Rid-all Pest Control, Super Pest Control, Total Pest Control, and Whole Earth Pest. Finally, I resorted to using the old fashioned way and looked them up in the phone book. Yep, there they were, “Lady Beetle Exterminating.”

I gave them a call and sure enough this company had been in business for over 10 years and serviced the entire metroplex. I asked the man on the phone why he would advertise “Lady Beetle Exterminating?”

“We do not advertise killing lady beetles, but they do die if they are around areas that we spray to control other pests in the landscape,” he said.

“Do you use diatomaceous earth and pyrethrum products,” I asked?

“No, we do not use diatomaceous earth in or out of the house and we do not use pyrethrum products, but we do use synthetic pyrethrins and products….blah blah blah,” he continued as he started rattling off products that contained numbers in their names.

“Why would you name your company "Lady Beetle Exterminating?"

“When I grew up in my small town USA, there was a company with a similar name that always caught my attention, so I decided to use it here,” he explained.

Well, the whole incident reminded me of a time when I was interviewed for a regional gardening magazine. I was asked why I sold lady beetles and how I thought that these insects would benefit the buyer. I spent one hour on the phone explaining proper release methods and the benefits of lady beetles in the garden. The interviewer was a hardheaded one-sided idiot who tuned in only to what he wanted to hear. My interview came out negative. The article almost ridiculed the use and any benefits of these insects, saying instead that they would just fly away as soon as released. I asked for a second interview and a chance to further explain the release methods. I also stated that I would like to be present when the article was written so that the editors would not chop out the important issues like they did on the first article. The answer was: NO!

When we have sudden changes in temperature and lady beetles have not found a place to hibernate, they will move indoors. Many times they will move into your home in large numbers and can be found in large clusters on walls near windows and sometimes near exchange vents. If you decide that you do not want to share your home with these bugs, gather them up and place them in a shoebox or a ladybug house. Once in the box you might get some leaves or other soft debris, such as lint from the dryer and place it in the box.

One customer told me that she mixed yeast, corn meal, sugar, and a little water, put the mixture into a small bottle cap inside a shoebox. She went on to say that she placed the box outside of her house on the southeast side, and left it there through the winter. On warm days she would inspect the box and see that the ladybugs were swarming over their food bowl. Some would venture outside the shoebox through the propped up lid and hang around the plants that were nearby. At the end of the winter she noticed that there were as many lady beetles as when she put them in the box. She said that around March the box was half empty, but she had lady beetles on her roses that were on the other side of her house. She found more lady beetles on her pansies and also in her herb garden.

Lady beetles are predators of many smaller insects like aphids and spider mites and are beneficial in the garden. Companies that have cute names are not necessarily environmentally friendly. Always check out the products that your exterminating service plans to use.

By the way, in the early spring groups of people go up into the Sierra Madras with specially equipped vacuum cleaners that strap onto their backs like back packs. With these vacuum cleaners they harvest lady beetles without harming them. So, if you do get an invasion of these very beneficial critters, do not destroy them; sweep them up or pull out the dust buster and prepare a hibernating house for them.

*Ponderosa. This name reminds me of my sister in law. Whenever she bends over, everybody present in the room screams:
“I haven’t seen a spread like that since the Ponderosa.”