Trees at Schools (TAS)

In 1999 we gave discounts in plants and labor or made donations to schools in Dallas, Richardson, Plano, Allen and Garland. Some of these schools were Private and some where in Independent School Districts. Many of these schools have created living learning gardens, where the teachers plan to encourage their students to grow vegetables and herbs, Native plants and trees and plants that encourage wildlife’s return to their areas. In a couple of schools water gardens have been created to encourage toads and turtles to stay in the area. The idea of children going to school and learning reading, writing and arithmetic, but actually learning about the birds and the bees appeals to me. The legacy created by today’s PTA’s will brighten the education of tomorrow’s students.

Through our TAS program and your help, we have made donations in the month of February to Cabell Elementary in Dallas, TX. And Richardson Heights Elementary, Richardson TX.

Rohde’s will help any school with a donation of up to $500.00.

To qualify we ask that your school present a plan that uses native plants or plants that will attract wildlife to the garden. Easy enough. First come, first serve.

Things to Do in March

It would be nice if the freeze we had in late February slowed the flowering process of bulbs and other early spring blooming plants, but it does not seem to have. Forsythia’s, Lilac’s, spireas, and early blooming trees like Saucer magnolia, Mexican Plum and Carolina Buckthorn should be in full bloom now. As you admire nature’s early bloomers inspect your landscape for chores that need to be done.

Lawn Care: Fertilize the lawn now using an organic fertilizer such as GreenSense All Purpose. Add a rock powder such as GreenSense Humate. NOT ORGANIC HUMUS that you buy at the big box stores. Humus is what every thing breaks down to after all minerals and nutrients have been depleted. If possible apply soil activators like GreenSense Microbial Treatment. Remember that microbes love to digest carbon materials, so always apply them after fertilizing the area.

Last week we had three customers bring in soil samples of their lawns. They were all nice square sections that were about four to eight inch squares. The first customer placed the soil sample on the counter and asked me what I thought of his soil.

The first thing I noticed when I lifted the sample off the counter was that it was dry and very heavy, almost like a brick. The second thing I noticed was that there were very few runners of St. Augustine grass on this sample. When I tried to break it to look at the middle of it I could not. It was like one of Sandra’s, my wife, chocolate chip cookies, if I had tried to eat this I would have broken my teeth. That is why I do not eat Sandra’s chocolate chip cookies, or brownies or cake. Oh, I am sorry we were talking about this soil sample.

This soil sample was dead and the color was a light brown or dark gray. I was not surprised when my customer told me that he had just moved into this new house. The previous owners had three children and two dogs. That is one reason why the soil was so compacted. They never had time for yard work and had contracted one of the Green and White Truck companies fertilize their lawn.

I recommended applying Humates at a rate of 20 pounds per thousand square feet and follow up with GreenSense Fertilizer. To loosen the soil I sold him a bottle of Microbial Lawn Treatment. Call me with results in May.

I recognized my second customer as a long time faithful organic gardener. Her soil sample was heavy and cold. It was moist and had roots visible all around the edges of the block of soil. When I tried to break it apart it easily split almost like a French bread and to my amazement there was a worm whose body I was stretching as I pulled the two pieces apart. The soil was a dark brown color with white roots everywhere. When I asked what she was fertilizing with and at what rate she proudly said: “I use GreenSense of course and I apply it at a rate of 20 pounds per thousand square feet four times per year.” In the past years she applied lava sand, hamates, sul-po-mag and had her lawn aerated twice in the last three years.

I recommended that she try to fertilize at a lower rate of ten pounds per thousand square feet, and cut back to three times a year. Her payback was near, I thought, she had such a healthy lawn that she could let the worms work for her now. I told her to observe the growth rate and the color of the foliage, to make sure that it would stay as green, glossy and pliable as the last few years. Let me know of any drastic changes.

The third sample had sufficient grass growing on top, but just below the grass blades and on top of the soil was a very thick layer of grass clippings. When I pinched it to gather it up I was able to get about a half-inch layer of matted, brown foliage. The soil was crumbly and a nice brown color but it was dry and I did not see a worm in it. I asked him what fertilizer he was using. He told me that until last fall he had been using chemical fertilizers, some with Diaznon, or some were weed and feed combination. He had listened to the Dirt Doctor and wanted to try the Natural Way.

After I came back from washing my hands I asked him how often he mowed his lawn? He said about every 7 to 10 days depending on his work schedule. I recommended GreenSense Fertilizer at a rate of 20 pounds per thousand, granulated molasses at a rate of 10 pounds per thousand to help speed up microbial activity and to apply the Microbial Treatment for lawns each time he fertilized this year. The microbes and molasses will help break down the amount of thatch he had on his lawn. I recommended four applications on this first year. I also asked him to mow more often or at least a higher level and to check the thatch periodically to see if it decreases. I will try to remember these three people so that I can do a follow up latter.

Do not let weeds produce a flower, the flower produces seeds and the seeds produce more weeds. One flower can produce up to 10,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 seeds. Well may be not that many. Use Vinegar and Citrus Oil Combo to kill weeds on contact.

Vegetables: I am surprised at how many people are asking about vegetable gardens and the best way to prepare them. Now is a good time to start your seeds indoors and have them ready to transplant as soon as the soil warms up. Check the seed package for proper planting times. For transplants the time to plant is:

When soil temperatures have reached 45-50 degrees plant: Spinach, lettuce.

When soil temperatures have reached 55-60 degrees plant: Chard, collards, turnips.

When soil temperatures have reached 65 degrees plant: Beans.

March is a good time to plant fruit trees and berries too.

Starting Seeds: Time to start vegetables from seed like tomatoes, cucumbers, leeks, lettuce and peppers. Herbs can be started now. Basil, chives, catnip, mints or any other of your favorite herbs can be started in the house now. Perennials will dive you years of color and beauty and can be started from the seeds you collected last year. Start seeds using a rich organic soil and mix soft rock phosphate to the soil. Soft Rock Phosphate Colloidal Clay will help seed root better and then encourage stronger stems, flower and fruit production. You can sift this material if you wish even though many customers say they do not. Start your seeds in egg cartons, plant pots, or the old flats from the flowers you purchased last year. Find a sunny window or a protected patio that is bright, warm and protected from cold winds, be prepared to move the seeds indoors if temperatures are going to drop. This will give you a fun project to do with the kids and give you a head start on these years crops. Transplant these into the soil when roots are well developed and soil temperature is warm.

Roses: If you have not trimmed roses and a re afraid to do so now because of the amount of growth that has already occurred, do so any way. If you have dead stem or long gangly branches that are flopping over go ahead and remove those branches. When you prune roses back you can get long stemmed flowers and beautiful rose bushes. I do not like to severally trim climbing roses, but you can.

Fertilize roses monthly using GreenSense Rose Food or a good combination of cotton seed meal, sul-po-mag and alfalfa meal.

Landscaping: Now is the time to start planning your landscape. If you know what you want, Stop! Make sure that what you want is going to work in that area.

Even though you are going to do it yourself draw a sketch on a large enough piece of paper that you can see read the name of the plants and the number of plants that you want to use. Try approximating the dimensions of the bed the length and height of the window, if any.

Get a book that will help you design your perfect landscape. Books by J. Howard Garrett, Sally Wasowski, Benny Simpson and Neil Sperry will help you with your decisions. If you are not from the Central Texas area find a book that is more for your region and use it.

Remember to place your plants away from the wall or if you are planting an ornamental tree plant it at least 5 feet from the wall and make sure that it will not grow into the eave.

Plan a theme garden. Do you want a garden that is all white? What about a biblical garden, where all the plants are mentioned in the Bible. How about a butterfly or hummingbird garden that will not only be beautiful, but will help feed the wildlife.

Know your soil moisture, is it to wet, does it drain very well. We do not know this, we may have never been to your house. Many plants that have gray leaves cannot take moisture and require full sun. Beware!

Take your sketch into a garden center for approval. If you bring it to Rohde’s do not be upset if we make you start over again or if we will not sell you a specific plant for your landscape. We are doing this for your own good.

If you are really confused and are not sure of what you want consult with a Landscape Architect like Carol Feldman or a Landscape Consultant like Sally Sutton, Karin Gilley or Kathy Brock. Call us at Rohde’s to talk to one of the above.

Transplanting: Now that you know what you are going to do in that new bed walk around your landscaped gardens and look for plants that may have been planted to near another one, grown to large for that spot or with time has multiplied and can be used in your new bed. This is still a good time to transplant. Make sure you get a big enough root ball and that the hole that you are moving the plant to is already fug and ready for the new plant. Finish your transplanting before the plant starts to put out new growth. HURRY!

Planting At Rohde’s like all other nurseries in Texas, we are receiving plants on a daily basis. At this time of the year you can find a large selection of plants, many of them you may not be familiar with. Ask questions or read books, but experiment with the plant that caught your eye.

Flowers: Consider using perennials or flowers that will reseed themselves in the next season. Even though we make money when we sell you a flat of annual flowers, we would much prefer sell you a pant that will give you years of enjoyment. Know the height and space required for each perennial that you but. Find out the different bloom periods and plant your bed so that you can enjoy the different seasons with these long-lived plants.

Watering: If it is true and we do have another drought this summer, are you ready for it? What precautions have you taken? In the flowerbeds and landscaped areas you can add more compost and lava sand. I added polymers to my beds and grassy areas.

Polymers act like a microscopic sponge, they absorb water, minerals, enzymes, fertilizers, in short, everything a young plant needs to grow into maturity. The Solid Water is safe, nontoxic and environmentally friendly.

With some variation depending on soil composition, weather conditions and specific applications, this product will last up to ten years. It will enhance the soil conditions. It absorbs and holds water in reserve in reserve until needed by plants, trees and lawns. It will not compete with plants for water.

Mulch heavily and maintain the mulch throughout the year to a depth of 3”. Before mulching snake a leaky hose around the plants and foundation. Even though I have a sprinkler system I like using my drip hose to water the foundation. Because of this I do not have to use the automatic stations in certain areas of my lawn and get better moisture to the soil without wind drift or evaporation.

Always check the plants under the eaves of the house the foundation itself. Most sprinklers are installed to spray away from the house, so that the windows and paint will not get wet. Last year most foundation repair people had a waiting period of two months before they could schedule a sales rep to come out and inspect foundations. Do not get a cracked foundation, it is not cheap and they will tear up your landscape. And they don’t care.

The Solid Water: This new product acts like a microscopic sponge, it absorbs water, minerals, enzymes, and fertilizers, in short, everything a young plant needs to grow into maturity. The Solid Water is safe, nontoxic and environmentally friendly.

With some variation depending on soil composition, weather conditions and specific applications, this product will last up to ten years. It will enhance the soil conditions. It absorbs and holds water in reserve in reserve until needed by plants, trees and lawns. It will not compete with plants for water.

Instructions for Use

New lawns and gardens: Apply one pound per thousand square foot of area (20 feet by 50 feet). Spread evenly with a spreader or by hand so that a light blanket of The Solid Water covers the area. Cultivate the product to a six inch depth of the lawn or garden.

New Lawns: apply new sod, fertilizer and water.

Existing Lawns: Aerate and use applicator to evenly distribute product over the area. One pound mixed with 50 pounds of Humate applied over 4000 square feet.

New Gardens: mix with topsoil, compost and water.

Existing Gardens and Flower Beds: Spread The Solid Water over area, cultivate with a spade to a depth of six inches.

Potted Plants: For best results it is recommended to pre-mix The Solid Water into the soil media. Follow the recommended amounts in the chart below. It is not necessary to water the polymer before mixing, but keep in mind it may expand 500% its weight as it hydrates. Leave approximately one inch in the pot for expansion. Pot plant in the appropriate container using the soil mixed with The Solid Water. Water thoroughly the first time.

Previously Potted Plants: Make holes in the soil according to the chart below to a depth approximately 2/3 of the depth of the pot. Avoid damaging the root center. Pour equal amounts of granules into each hole using the appropriate amount as specified below. Cover the holes with soil and water thoroughly. Depending on environment water usage may be reduced by up to 70%.

What's in a Name?

by Sally Sutton

What do Annual Phlox, Rough-Leafed Dogwood, Western Soapberry, Post Oak, Turk's Cap, Rain Lily, some varieties of cactus, and hundreds of other species of plants and animals have in common? These are a few of the flora and fauna named after Thomas Drummond, a Scottish naturalist and botanist that came to America in 1825 to explore, and to send samples back to England.

It wasn't ever easy. He first went to western Canada, where, for two and a half years he traveled on foot and by canoe, with a Native American for a guide. During the winter, he used dog sleds and snowshoes to get through the several feet of snow. All the time, he was collecting plants and bird skins to send back to Britain. One winter, he ran into some bad luck. His boat became stuck in the ice, and he was stranded. He sent his guide home. Getting pretty hungry, he managed to catch a skunk and eat it. He had to keep hungry bears away by rattling his sample boxes. The samples saved his life in another way. Snow-blind and unable to hunt, starving, and helpless, he survived by eating his collections; those bird skins never made it back to England!

This didn't deter him. When spring came and his strength returned, he headed out again, collecting more plants and birds. Unfortunately, he made a mistake, and came between a mother bear and her cub. Her attack nearly killed him, but he managed to return to Britain with nearly 300 samples of plants and bird skins.

In 1829 Drummond returned to America, this time exploring the southeastern U.S. During his travels, he heard about Texas, and decided to go there. Once again, Thomas suffered hardships. He arrived in the tiny port of Velasco, where 20 or 30 people lived in four huts. Rain had swollen the rivers, and turned swamps into waist deep fields of mud. In spite of this, he managed to collect enough samples to send back to his home. He paid a price. Cholera swept the area, killing several around. Those it didn't kill, it made deathly ill, including Drummond. Starving, ill, with no one well enough to give aid, he slowly managed to recover, and continue to explore Texas. In letters to a friend, he wrote about the remarkable beauty of the plants he saw. He particularly liked Coreopsis and Gaillardia.

While deep snows, ice and extreme cold was Drummond's companion in Canada, his stay in Texas had him facing flooding rivers, pressing humidity, and mosquitoes. He traveled by boat to Brazoria, a long 15 miles from Velasco. The Brazos River was swollen with floodwaters, which engulfed even the floor of his boarding house. And still it rained. A third of his collections were lost to rot. He didn't give up. He headed out again, to explore southeast Texas He hoped to continue inland, but fear of Indian attacks caused him to change his mind. Instead, he went to Galveston Island. There he spent an entire winter alone, collecting plant, bird, and various animal samples, all the while struggling to survive against starvation, chill winds, and extreme loneliness. Ultimately, he was able to leave Galveston Island, and he decided to return to Scotland. Not to stay, but get his family and return to Texas. He hoped to work for the Mexican government. Unfortunately, the ship he took stopped in Cuba for several days. Drummond never made it home. Cuban authorities notified his family in Britain that he had died of unknown causes.

One of the last plants he sent back was the annual Phlox, which Sir Joseph Hooker of Kew named Phlox drummondii, to "serve as a frequent reminder of its unfortunate discoverer." It quickly became a hit in England. Only seven years after it arrived in England, James Drummond, Thomas's brother, saw it growing in an Australian garden.

When we see the beautiful fields of Drummond Phlox, Skullcaps, Fringed Sneezeweed and Rainlilies, when we marvel at a hummingbird stopping at a Turk's Cap, or walk through a forest of Western Soapberry and Roughleaf Dogwoods, when we struggle over the botanical names of these plants, lets remember how they came by them. Let's remember Thomas Drummond.

Vegetable Garden Preparation

As you read this article I will do the best that I can to explain the making of a perfect Vegetable Garden. Remember that I do not have a garden and that the method that I will be telling you is a compilation of my customer's experiences both good and bad, personal observations from the days, um, years that have past when I installed prepared gardens or ripped them out for many a frustrated back yard gardener.

Having a backyard vegetable garden is a lot more work then people think. It is true that you are the one that decides what methods you will use to control insects and disease. If done properly you will have the least polluted vegetable garden in the world. You will be the only one to blame for the failure or success of a beautiful tomato, strawberry or the largest watermelon in your neighborhood. You may be the cause of it’s failure even though you spent hours in the preparation of the garden, hours of frustrated sowing, feeding, weeding and having to listen to your spouse complain about the eyesore you have created and when you are going to do some thing about it before he/she contracts someone to put it back the way it was.

Talk to friends that have gardens, get on chat lines, do research before you get started and ask why you are doing this? What time will you are able to spend and who if anyone is going to take care of the garden while you are on a business trip? Is a tomato that will cost you five dollars a pound worth it?

These are some reasons that I do not have a garden. There are certain times of the year where I work seven days a week for up to l3 hours a day. When I get home I would much rather swim away my frustrations and tensions then bend over and pull weeds.

Anyway for those of you, who have asked me to help with a garden, here goes.

The first thing one must look for is the proper location. Do not choose an area that has a large slope you want the water to go into the soil and not to run off. If you are going to try and change the grade do not use railroad ties or other treated lumber that can contaminate the soil. I like Pavestone Wall Stone™ or natural stone like Oklahoma Flagstone.

Most gardens should receive six hours of sunlight. So the vegetable garden must be in sun almost all day.

When you find your location plan the garden from south to north so that the plants will be able to get as much exposure to the sun from early morning until late afternoon.

If you know that some plants will require less sun then plan to protect them from hot afternoon sun by using the canopy of a tree, the exterior of the house or be ready to place burlap or shade cloth as a sun block.

If your garden is big enough to have several rows make sure that you have a pathway so that you can work around the rows.

Many of the lawns in the Dallas area have Bermuda grass growing in full sun areas. Make sure that you remove all the grass and it rhizomes so that you will not have to worry about the invasion of the grass latter on. Your best bet is to rent a sod cutter.

After the sod is removed I like to till the entire area before adding any amendments. If the soil is hard and the tiller is jumping all over the place do what an employee of mine does. Jose will lightly wet the area that needs tilling and then start tilling again. Be careful, if the ground is to wet then you will glaze the soil and end up with a very hard base that will be like a swimming pool, not permitting the water to drain quickly. On this first pass over you should till to about 10 or 12 inches deep.

Now that the soil is loose add your amendments into the top six inches of soil. As the roots of the plants push out they will be able to find all kinds of organic matter from the get go. As you water the soil the compost will leach deeper into the soil.

If you have done your homework you will know that you do not want to add a compost mix that has a lot of sawdust.

If you are making a starter garden and will only be using a small amount of amendments I would recommend Back To Earth Compost. We use this compost for all of our bed preparations, be it vegetable gardens or landscape beds.

Apply Back To Earth Compost 3 cu/ft bag over 12 sq./ft.

To this we add:

Lava Sand 40 lbs per 200 square feet. Even though the bag say that it will cover 1000 sq./ft. Lava Sand is great for retaining moisture and also contains sulfur and magnesium.

Green Sand contains Iron and Potash and should be applied at a rate of 40 lbs. per 1000 sq./ft.

Soft Rock Phosphate Colloidal Clay at a rate of 10 lbs. per 1000 sq./ft.

Humate at a rate of 10 lbs. per 1000 sq./ft.

If you had a garden before and you want to enlarge it or create a new bed that will require more then two yards of mix call Clear Fork Materials. They really do compost their manure products before they sell them. The main ingredient is stable horse manure. There is no sawdust, it is manure and straw. The other ingredient is lava sand. Now unfortunately, they are far away, Aledo Texas, and if you can’t go and pick it up they will deliver, but their delivery fee is not cheap. Call them for quotes at (817)-441-7777; ask them if they will give you a Rohde’s discount. Even if they do not, buy it.

If you think that you can save money and time by using fresh manure given to you at one of the stables, BEWARE. Fresh manure can cause food-borne illnesses by contaminating vegetables with pathogens. If you can get fresh manure compost it making sure that the temperatures are above 140 degrees for at least 10 days.

Most people like to plant on the same day that they finish the new bed; I think that that is a mistake. I would release microbes into the new bed so that these creatures can mix everything even better then your tiller. As they advance they digest whatever is in front of them. Let them work for a week and then plant start to plant your garden with your transplants.

Water the new bed well and check for pooling or excess water. Grab clumps of soil and squeeze it to check for extra moisture. Correct any problem areas before planting. Add more compost or try breaking any possible hardpan either below the problem area or around the border.

It is very important to plant your perennial vegetables where you will not have to step on them as you do to your annual cleaning and turning.

After two weeks and if the soil is warm and dry enough plant seeds.

Do not plant very large areas using the same plant. As Howard Garrett says think of the forest where natures has different varieties of plants to help with the survival of others. If you have a catastrophic attack of a disease or insect that might be specific to one plant, bio-diversity will slow the spread.

Use companion plants like Garlic, Basil or Tansy to help discourage bugs from entering the area. Use border plants like Marigolds to monitor for spider mites.

Always mulch bare soils, but be careful of the products you use. If you use hay test it for pickle ram first. You do not want this herbicide to leach into your garden and kill what it touches. Your best bet is cedar mulch, which will help repel insects. Hardwood mulch, pine straw and Alfalfa meal are close seconds in choice.

Once your figs have leaved out, it's time to prune away dead wood from the winter. Mulch around the base of figs with bark or straw to keep the soil cool and moist this summer, and spread an all-purpose fruit tree fertilizer around the tree's drip line for the largest and best quality figs.

If you love to grow hot peppers, but only need a few and have trouble getting them to mature in your cool climate, consider growing them in containers. Hot pepper types such as habanera and serrano like long stretches of hot weather and grow best in containers. Fill a 5-gallon container with potting soil and plant one pepper per pot. Keep the plant well watered and fertilized and you'll be eating peppers all summer and fall. Peppers can be grown in shade in the Central Texas area. I have seen many peppers that have been grown in pots and moved around the patio to protect them from direct sunlight with great results. Try it out.

Learn to Water Wisely

by Kathy Brock, Master Gardener Dallas County

Almost on a daily basis at Rohde’s, we are asked how often or how much to water a plant. Let me just answer that question for the last time: we can’t answer that question. Only you can make that determination. I know you know the basics of proper watering but in light of the current weather situation and the fact that we get asked that question so often, it doesn’t hurt to go over it one more time. Most of us are facing the possibility of watering restrictions but you can still have a beautiful, healthy landscape without cheating on those restrictions.

Determining if you need to water is a very, very, very, very, very simple process: go for a walk early in the morning. If your grass springs back after you’ve walked on it, it has sufficient moisture. If your footprints remain and the turf has a dull color to it, it’s time to water. Now, take a stroll over to your trees, shrubs, flowerbeds, and garden. Bend over and stick your God given moisture meters that are conveniently attached to your hands into the soil. If it’s moist, go back to the house for another cup of coffee. If the top inch or two of soil is dry, it’s time to water. Now isn’t that easy.

The frequency of watering depends on many factors. The condition of the soil, plant selection and placement, Microclimates within your landscape, and the weather all play a part in how often you will need to water. The most important thing to remember is that if you do have an automatic sprinkler system to turn it over the manual mode. No plant, including turf grass, should ever be watered on a set schedule!!!! Go for that early morning walk and YOU make the determination if watering needs to be done. Also, keep in mind that different parts of your landscape will require differing amounts of watering.

The amount of water you need to apply is also dependent on the previously mentioned variables. If we do not receive the ideal of one inch per week, you will need to supplement the watering on an as-needed basis (take that walk first!). Water early in the morning and put out enough water to soak the top 6-8 inches of soil. Keep in mind that our clay soils can only absorb about ¼ inch of water per hour so you will need to keep an eye out for run-off. If you see run-off occurring, stop watering and restart when the water has soaked in. The greatest waste of water is applying too much too often.

Water conservation can be realized in two ways: use the principles of xeriscape and manage your irrigation equipment properly.

Xeriscaping involves improving your soil with organic matter, compost, and other amendments so that it will hold more moisture and drain more freely. This will improve the overall health of the plant as well. The organic matter in our soils is constantly breaking down and must be continually replenished. Using plants that are native or adapted to the area will also greatly reduce water use. When planning your landscape, group plants together according to their water needs and plant them in the conditions that they are used to in their native habitat. An adequate layer of mulch will provide a protective cover for the soil and plant roots. This will moderate temperature extremes, retain soil moisture, and discourage soil born plant diseases. Mulch is also continually breaking down and will have to be replenished on a continuous basis.

Watering efficiently is by far the most effective way to reduce landscape water-waste. Part of efficient watering depends on the system that is being use, but more importantly it is based on how the system is managed. There is no ideal system to water every plant in the landscape efficiently. The best system is a combination of systems that is turned on and off by YOU not by a timer. Consider making an investment this year in soaker hoses and/or drip irrigation for your shrubs, flowerbeds, and vegetable garden. If these devices are laid under the mulch layer the water loss due to evaporation from the heat and wind is virtually eliminated. The water is then delivered right where it is needed—to the root zone of the plant not up into the foliage.

The reality of the situation is that when the meteorologist says there is a "chance of rain" on the 5th day of the 5-day forecast, it probably isn’t going to happen. It probably won’t rain on the 6th, 7th, or 8th day either. We will need to supplement the natural rainfall this year and in years to come to protect our investments. However, there are efficient ways to do this and it CAN be done within the restrictions that are imposed by our communities. Try this season to wait one more day before you turn on the sprinklers. Let’s all do our part to conserve water and try to stretch out the time between waterings. Water is not an unlimited resource. I want to leave you with one last thought on the subject, a thought that I hope you will keep in mind in the months to come, in the dead of winter, who really remembers whose lawn was the best-looking last summer anyway?

And now for some good news if you are able to purchase at the BX MART at NAS Joint Reserve Base which is the Old Carswell Air Force Base. You can now find a wide variety of GreenSense Products there. I was surprised at the prices and could not believe that you don’t even have to pay taxes.

If GreenSense does well at this Base then I am told it could go to every PX Nation Wide.