Organic Matters

The Online Newsletter from Rohde’s Nursery and Nature Store and Green Sense Fertilizers

Archive

May 1999

Things to Do in May

Time to start thinking about the summer garden. If one wants to enjoy color during the summer, spring is the time to plant out the summer flowering annuals, bulbs, perennials and shrubs. This is also the month to begin getting the lawn in shape for the summer. In fact, what you accomplish this month will greatly cut back on garden maintenance the rest of this spring and summer.

Annuals: By mid to late month it should be warm enough to plant out just about all of the summer flowering annuals. Early in the month it should be relatively safe to plant the hardy annuals like Petunias. Geraniums, Impatiens should be ready by mid month and later in the month go ahead and plant out the more tender annuals like Salvia, Zinnias, Lobelia and the rest of them. If you have already planted out a few of these annuals, just watch the weather forecasts, to be sure there is no danger of frost that could damage them. If frost is forecast cover the plants with newspapers, light cloth or some type of overnight protection.

Bulbs: All of these and other summer flowering bulbs can be planted this month.

Perennials: Now is the time to plant out the Delphiniums, Phlox, Daylilies, and other summer flowering perennials. The spring flowering Aubrietia, Candytuft, Basket of Gold, Primroses, Coral Bells and Saxifraga can be selected and planted anytime this spring.

Lawns: This is a great month to eliminate lawn weeds, aerate, feed and over-seed the lawn. Actually few lawns will need all this care so only do the steps that are necessary to get your lawn in tip-top shape.

Baskets and Containers: As soon as the evenings warm-up just a little more the Fuchsia, Geranium, Impatiens and mixed baskets can be put outside. If you already have put these out into the garden be sure to keep tabs on the weather, so there is no chance of the baskets getting nipped by a late frost.

Planting: This would be good time to select and plant those plants that you need to replace the ones that were winter killed. Since most plants are now grown in containers, they can be planted into the garden at anytime now.

Fertilizing: There still is plenty of time to fertilize all the trees and shrubs. junipers, etc. Use a 'Rose or All-purpose Garden' fertilizer to feed roses, perennials, deciduous shrubs and trees, and annuals. Be sure to water-in the fertilizer thoroughly after it is applied.

Slugs: They are out in full force right now, so be sure to take steps to control them before they have a chance to ruin your garden. Early slug control will also help reduce the population of slugs before they have a chance to reproduce.

Weeds: Many weeds are already flowering and going to seed. Eliminate them before this happens, otherwise you will be fighting those weed seeds for up to the next seven years or more.

Measure rainfall with a rain gauge near the garden so you can tell when to water. The garden needs about one inch of water per week.

Lightly sidedress perennials with a 5-10-10 or 10-10-10 fertilizer. Avoid spilling on the center or crown of the plant.

If you don't have a lot of time to devote to gardening, choose plants that are easy to maintain. Flowers that do not need deadheading include impatiens, alyssum, begonia, ageratum and lobelia.

Fill the bare spots in your lawn by loosening the soil to a depth of 1/2 inch and sowing a good quality seed. Work the seed in and gently water the area. Keep it moist by covering with mulch.

When weather is wet or cold, allow about twice the germination time listed on the seed packet. If no sign of growth occurs after this time, dig around a little to check for sprouted seeds. If you find no signs of life, the seed has probably rotted, and you will need to replant.

For easier watering of tomatoes and other large vegetables, punch holes in the bottom of a gallon can and place it deep in the soil near the plant. Watering through the can keeps water close to the plant roots.

Slugs love cool, moist weather and succulent, leafy crops. Debris in the garden provides them with a place to hide. Remove debris and invert a clay flower pot in the garden. Next morning remove the slugs by hand. Eventually you'll decrease the slug population.

Watering with a soaker hose or drip irrigation will conserve water and may reduce the spread of fungal diseases.

Azalea leaf gall is a fungus that causes leaves to become swollen and distorted. Pick off infected leaves and prune to provide better air circulation. A copper fungicide will prevent the spread of the disease.

Remove nonproductive suckers and watersprouts from fruit trees as soon as they appear.

Cats like to dig in freshly cultivated soil. One way to deter them is to lay down crumpled poultry netting over the bed until the plants are large enough to take care of themselves.

Bad Hint

Last summer, when the power mower was broken and wouldn't run, Jane kept hinting to Dick, her husband, that he needed to get it fixed, but somehow the message wasn't sinking in.

She finally thought of a clever way to make the point. When Dick arrived home that day, he found her seated in the tall grass, busily clipping away with a tiny pair of sewing scissors.

He watched silently for a short time, then went into the house. Jane thought she had again failed to get his attention. Well, he was gone only a few moments, and when he came out again he handed her a toothbrush saying, "When you finish cutting the grass, you might as well sweep the sidewalks.

Daylilly Care

by Ron Cohea

We were alerted by east Texas Daylily people to look for red spidermites.

Yes, we have a few spidermites already.

Also, we have one scape with extensive thrips damage on the scape (brown rough patches) and in the buds nearing bloom (bumps on bud from thrips inside).

What do thrips and red spidermites have in common culturally? They both multiply rapidly in warm to hot dry conditions. Our current drought conditions meet this criteria.

Early Signs

Look for areas of light spots in foliage where spidermites suckout the juices. The tiny red dots are 'red spidermites'. Later, the foliage spots are brown.

Contols

  1. Overhead watering and rainstorms wash thrips nymphs and immature red spidermites off of foliage (away from their food source). Check soil often and keep soil damp (not soaking).
  2. Beneficial insects: Green lacewings feed on thrips (but, prefer aphids). Amblyseius Cucumeris feed mostly on thrips nymphs, but also on immature spidermites.
  3. Howard Garrett says, "Spidermites hate seaweed". Others also say that garlic repels thrips. Howard says, "Garlic acts as a systemic in the plant". But, don't spray your beneficial insects (direct spray to backside of leaves only).
  4. Spray Garrett Juice or Foliar Juice weekly to promote plant growth, production, and health. These foliar sprays contain seaweed.

Thrips may produce five life cycles before very hot weather. Good luck and good blooms.

Hope this helps you.

SuperBio as a Part of a Good Fertilization Program

Why Certain Biological Activity Is Important to Soil

Scientific and academic research conducted over the past decade has demonstrated that beneficial microorganisms play an instrumental role in fostering soil fertility in four respects:

  • They naturally suppress many forms of turf disease because they out-compete pathogenic organisms for minerals and nutrients.
  • They enhance the performance of both organic and synthetic fertilizers, by improving root absorption of the minerals and nutrients these products contain.
  • They decompose more rapidly the organic residue of senescing plants, which otherwise contribute to a thatch layer that builds up and prevents the soil profile from freely passing oxygen and water.
  • They maintain an open, well-aerated and porous soil profile that is able to leach salts and other harmful compounds away from the root zone.

In short, this microbial life can be thought of as the working and living part of the soil which performs many of the functions that are required to keep the soil in balance, healthy and capable of regenerating and sustaining high quality turf.

Healthy Soil with Microbes

For decades the nutrition and growth of plants have been regarded chiefly from the chemical point of view. Today leading scientists state that the biological balance in nature, and especially in our soils, has been considerably disturbed. They seek measures to overcome this disturbance, or exhaustion of soils, and are working for soil recovery.

Nature's Way

Natural fertility can only be restored by taking all necessary steps to revitalize and activate nature's biological powers. Science has recognized that in addition to the fundamental mineral fertilization, the biological powers coming from soil bacteria, and other micro-organisms, are most important for successful and healthful plant production. Chemical aids alone are rather useless to keep soil in a healthy and productive condition. Only with the addition of these micro-organisms can positive steps be taken to aid Nature's restoration of the soil.

Healthy Soil Characteristics

The ability of a soil to produce healthy plants with high productivity depends mainly on its humus and microorganism content. Such soil is well ventilated, holds and retains moisture, allows excess surface water to flow off but does not erode. Soil of this character is especially suitable for making the best use of mineral fertilizers as it allows the essential minerals to be absorbed by the plant without loss to the soil.

Healthy Soil and SuperBio

SuperBio is a culture of beneficial micro-organisms which has been in use for over 35 years. SuperBio enhances the existing nutrients in the soil and makes these nutrients more available to the roots. The principal objective is to make available to the plants the existing nutrients by establishing the beneficial soil micro-organisms, which act as "converters" for plant life. SuperBio has been proven successful in performing this function.

It is generally agreed that something is needed to speed up Nature's work in the soil for without the natural soil-life activity, there would be no growth and no decomposition of organic matter. SuperBio fills this need not by replacing Nature or producing a synthetic, man-made effect, but by stimulating Nature itself.

Benefits of SuperBio

Where SuperBio is applied, the soil regains the mellowness of virgin soil. The soil is easier to work—it accepts moisture better, and there is less clodding. Earthworm activity returns to the soil where they have been absent for years. The time it takes to bring the soil back to its own best natural condition depends on how deficient it was before treatment. SuperBio is almost the opposite of fertilizers in that its effect increases and improves with time instead of depleting or becoming used up as the season progresses.

SuperBio Results

Lawns and Yards: Better lawn coverage, elimination of weak or bare spots, thicker and healthier grass. Lawns require less watering through dry periods after SuperBio has had a chance to develop thoroughly in the soil.

Shrubs and Trees: Withstand periods of drought better, new growth is vigorous and more resistant to cold "snaps" in spring. Flowering shrubs such as crepe myrtles have vivid, large flowers.

Annuals: Earlier blooming, longer period of productive flowering. More profuse blooming.

Perennials: Verdant plant growth, plants do not become dwarfed due to depletion of soil and lack of decomposition of old root systems.

House Plants: Soil will last longer, remain in better condition, requiring less repotting. Good texture without hard clodding.

Bulbs Reach large and jumbo sizes more rapidly. Better sizes of blooms from small and medium size bulbs in the first year.

Roses: Product has amazingly revitalized weak and deficient roses in many instances. More blooms and large, healthy leaves.

More Is Better?

Back in 1979 when I was still mowing yards, I had a customer who was an instructor for Flight Attendants at Braniff International, an airline that is now bankrupt. Mrs. Doorman knew that I spoke Spanish and asked me if I wanted to be a Flight Attendant. She assured me that I would fly weekends only since their was a shortage of Spanish speakers, so I decided to try it out.

After going through some real intensive training where I learned how to evacuate people from a smoke filled airplane, administer First Aid and give CPR, and faint during child birth (luckily we only had to view a tape or I would have really lost it), I was ready for my first day on the job.

After graduation we had two weeks before we were to start flying but I was so anxious to get my first flight out of the way that I called Scheduling to see if I could pick up a flight to anywhere. Knowing that it was to be my first trip they gave me two choices work on The Air France Concord, from Washington D.C. back to Dallas, a once in a lifetime opportunity, or work on a flight to Honolulu, a flight that I could pick up at almost any time. I decided to work on the Concord and to my delight we flew high enough to see the curvature of the Earth at sundown an experience that I will never forget.

Several days later I finally started my regular schedule as a Spanish speaker. My duties included making all safety announcements in both English and Spanish, have the customs and immigration forms prepared and my favorite one was to fumigate the passenger cabin with an insecticide to make sure that we were not importing any insects that could damage U.S. crops.

The first time I performed this duty I made an announcement cautioning the passengers so that they could have time to cover their faces. I was working on a Boeing 727 S this plane had 47 rows of seats. I started to spray in First Class. I was doing such a good job that I only made it to row 5 with my first canister. I did such a thorough job that I used four canisters for the whole aircraft.

As proof that I had killed all the insects four first class passengers threw up and several people complained of nausea and headaches. I made a report and turned it in to my supervisor who told me that I was supposed to use only one can on any 727. I later looked at another bottle and saw no instructions, only the ingredients. None of my instructors ever told me how to use this product.

Luckily none of my passengers died.

I must admit that at first I took my job too seriously, about three months into my job.

I started to get tired of smelling that stuff, and this I swear, I would go down the aisles making a hissing sound from my mouth as I pretended to apply the insecticide.

More then once, a Flight Attendant asked me to make sure that I would fumigate a certain pest in Row….

After the first incident I began to read labels until I understood them labels, not only did my laziness or hurry make others sick, I probably took many years from my life due to the improper use of the product.

Everyday I get customers who come into the store to buy natural insecticides such as Neem Oil or Pyrethrums. These products have great labels, but nobody seems to want to take time to read labels and decide to ask me or one of my staff for instructions.We are not allowed to answer the question and sometimes the customer thinks that we are being rood when we tell them to read the label and follow the directions.

Not too long ago someone called our store. I answered the phone.

Caller: "I purchased an insecticide last year and do not know how to use it."

Me: "Did you read the label?"

Caller: "The label got wet and I can’t."

Me: "Where did you buy it from?"

Caller: "I can’t remeber"

Me: "If you do not know what the product is or if you can not read the label I would dispose of it at the next chemical round up that the city has."

Caller: (angrily) "I paid a lot of money for this!"

Me: How do you know?

Caller: "Because, I have the receipt."

Me: "What does it say?"

Caller: "Thirteen, ninety-nine."

Me: "The product, what is the name of the product? I would recommend that you take the product back to where you purchased it and they will dispose of it properly."

Caller: I will be honest with you I just purchased this product at a large chain store and I wanted to make sure I was going to use it properly. This product was $1.50 cheaper then at your place.

I told the caller to read the entire label, for their safety. Try to determine what insect she was trying to control find that insect on the label and mix the product as specified. I went on to say that if there was any part of the instructions that she did not understand she should contact the manufacturer at the number on the back of the label.

I thought she was going to hang up the phone without another word, but boy was I wrong. She actually thanked me for being patient with her.

"Next time, please spend the extra $1.50 with us, unlike the big chain, that is a lot of money for us and we will help you understand the product", I said.